Farm fencing is a big expense, both
in terms of time and money, but it's
one of the most important
investments a farmer will make.
By Carol Ekarius
About the Author
Carol Ekarius and her
husband, Ken Woodard, are
hobby ranchers in the
mountains of Colorado. |
Farm fencing is a big expense,
both in terms of time and money, but
it's one of the most important
investments a farmer will make, and
it’s best made early in the process
of setting up your farm.
|
In this article...
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Fencing Articles
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After all, you’ve achieved your
goal of moving to the country.
But without the right type of
fencing for your farm, you could
look out the window and see your
flock of sheep and their guardian
llama heading down the road, your
goats enjoying the newly planted
fruit trees or your pigs digging in
the neighbor’s garden. Oops!
In the distant past, natural
materials were the only available
supplies for farm fencing; then in
the late 1800s barbed wire was
invented, offering the intrepid farm
fence builder an effective means of
creating long-standing barriers.
Fence Laws and
Regulations
Every state has
laws that regulate ownership
and control of livestock.
In some areas where
“free-range” laws are still
in force, a landowner must
fence out the neighbor’s
animals, but in most places,
it is the livestock owner’s
responsibility to control
his or her animals with
adequate fencing.
Fence laws typically define
who is responsible for
constructing and maintaining
a fence, who has liability
when animals get out and
cause damage (including when
they get on the road and
cause an accident), and a
description of what
constitutes a “legal fence.”
Some local governments also
have fence laws, which often
prohibit the use of certain
types of fence—for example,
barbed wire or electric
fence are often illegal in
towns and subdivisions.
Your
County Extension
Agent or local
animal control officer
should be able to provide
information on the fence law
in your area.
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But today, fencing technology has
grown more humane and includes a
much wider range of materials, from
the old standbys like wood, to new,
high-tech materials like
high-tensile polymer rail and
electro-plastic twine.
Stan Potratz, owner of Premier Fence
Systems has been instrumental in
introducing many of the new farm
fencing products to the North
American continent.
“While attending college in England
in the late 1960s, I found a used
copy of Andre Voisin’s book, Grass
Productivity, which outlined the
principals of rotational, or
intensive, grazing,” he explains.
“The college had an operating farm,
and because of my background, I got
recruited to work on it, and I began
experimenting with the ideas. New
materials were showing up in Britain
at the time, like low-impedance
energizers, step-in posts,
electro-plastic wire and
high-tensile wire.”
When Stan returned to the family
farm in the late 1970s, he wanted to
run sheep. He went to the local farm
supply stores, but couldn’t find any
of the materials he’d been using in
England, so he began importing them
for his own use.
“My neighbors looked kind of
askance. At the time in Iowa, you
raised corn and beans, maybe some
hogs. But the economy of the late
1970s was good for sheep, and I was
running 700 ewes, using these
products I’d imported. Other sheep
producers became really interested
in what I was doing—as did staff
from some of the agricultural
colleges.”
Guidelines for Fence
Posts
While the type of
post you choose depends on
the type of fencing you
ultimately select, there are
some general guidelines:
- Posts should be
stout with about one
third buried.
- 8 to 12 feet between
posts is the usual
spacing recommendation.
- PVC posts generally
require more concrete.
- Standard metal “T”
posts fit with PVC
sleeves reduce
impalement risks.
- Wood posts should be
treated with a
preservative before
being put in the ground.
Peeling the bark is also
recommended as it can
harbor boring insects
and trap moisture, which
hastens decay.
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Stan didn’t intend to start a
fencing supply business, but by the
early 1980s, he had a viable
sideline business.
Today, his accidental business
has grown, because, as he explains,
“There has been a real increase in
the availability and quality of
these newer fence products in the
last couple of decades, both with
the imported products and the
domestic ones.”
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Dealing with Your Existing Fence
If you’ve inherited an old
fence, you’re faced with the dilemma
of fixing it up or replacing it.
Some old fences still have lots of
life left in them, and with just a
minor amount of repairs can provide
years of service. But many are more
trouble than they’re worth.
A Fact About Electric
Fences
Electric fence is
effective largely because it
offers the same type of
reaction that livestock are
accustomed to in a herd
environment.Those who
challenge the herd leader
receive an immediate,
aggressive response. Those
who challenge electric
boundaries get an instant
bite as well, thereby
establishing the rules.
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To decide which category your
fence falls into, take a stroll.
Walk the entire fence slowly and
look at its condition.
Are posts rotting and falling over?
Push them with all your strength; do
they move easily? Are wires rusted
to the point that it takes little
pressure to break them? If you
answer yes to these questions, scrap
the existing fence. On the other
hand, if the posts are still stout
and firm and wires aren’t severely
rusted, or if there are just one or
two spots that are failing, you may
be able to just tighten up an
existing fence.
Top
Fences
Made of Wood
Traditionally, wood was the
best choice for fencing, often cut
and milled right off the farm. But
for early fence builders, the
heartwood of aged, hardwood trees
was readily available, and this
heartwood had longevity—often
lasting 100 years with little
attention. Today this type of wood
is generally unavailable. The wood
at lumberyards is typically softer
wood that requires diligent upkeep.
In humid climates, a wooden fence
has a life expectancy of about 20
years with a regular maintenance
schedule including painting or
staining every few years. Without
dedicated maintenance, a wooden
fence will suffer. Pressure-treated
lumber will last for about seven
years without painting or staining,
but carries a higher cost than
untreated lumber.
Vinyl-coated wood can
dramatically increase a wooden
fence’s life span. “Solar radiation
is what does wood in,” says Bill
Mullin, owner of Stockton Lumber and
Fence. “By cladding pressure-treated
wood with vinyl, you get a
water-resistant product that is not
exposed to solar radiation. You get
a great, no-maintenance product.”
Although wood is rarely used
today for perimeter fencing of large
pastures, its strength makes it a
good choice for small pastures,
handling facilities and paddocks
designed to separate bulls or
stallions from cows or mares. It
also makes affordable riding arenas.
Top
Fences Made of Barbed Wire
Barbed wire, developed in
1853 by Texan William H. Meriwether,
enabled those settling in the arid
West (where wood was scarce) to
operate farms and ranches. However,
barbed wire is difficult to work
with—inevitably tearing up pants,
gloves and skin if it has half the
chance. It’s also dangerous to
animals that get caught in it, often
resulting in such severe injuries
that the animal must be euthanized;
this is particularly true for
horses.
Barbed wire is, unfortunately,
the only “legal fence” in some
states (see “Fence Law” below), yet
it’s often illegal under local
government codes if you live in a
town or a subdivision. If you live
in one of the states that limit a
legal fence to four-strand barbed
wire, and your animals escape from
another type of fencing, you lose
certain protections that are
afforded under the state’s fence
law.
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Fences Made of Woven Wire
Sheep, goats, pigs and poultry are
difficult to contain. They climb,
dig or fly through many fences, so
for years woven wire has been the
choice for these critters. It’s also
favored by many horse owners—as
horses are less likely to get
tangled in woven wire than in barbed
wire—and, because of its sturdy
character, it’s often used for
corrals and night-holding pens in
areas with predator problems.
A well-made, woven wire fence can
last for 20 years with moderate
maintenance—unless you live in a
high-snow region where the weight of
the winter’s snow tends to pull it
down. Initial construction of a
woven wire fence requires heavy-duty
wooden posts to support the weight.
Top
High-Tensile Wire Fencing
High-tensile wire fencing
is effective in both smooth and
woven wire designs. Unlike
traditional galvanized wire,
high-tensile wire is extremely
strong and has a life expectancy up
to 50 years, with minimal
maintenance. Initial construction
costs can be high, and it requires
specialized equipment and skills
that the neophyte fence builder
might not have, but it is perhaps
the most economical and trouble-free
fence if amortized out over the life
of the fence. It is like the Humvee
of fences: durable and heavy-duty.
Top
Synthetic Fencing
When synthetic fencing hit
the market in the 1970s, it had a
reputation for failing or looking
shabby after a few years in the sun.
But the class of synthetic fencing
that’s been around for the last
decade has improved tremendously and
now often comes with a lifetime
guarantee against discoloration,
rusting, peeling, rotting or
splintering.
“Synthetic fencing is highly
visible, and good-looking,” says
Debbie Disbrow, owner and president
of RAMM Fence Systems Inc. “As
animal owner’s ourselves, we are
always concerned with safety, and
products like reinforced and bonded
flexible rail are very safe, because
the product gives on impact.”
There are many types of synthetic
fencing. PVC fencing is hollow rails
sunk into heavy-duty posts. RAMM
Fence suggests using electric in
combination with rigid PVC in
high-traffic areas, or with
aggressive animals. High-tensile
polymer rail fences are flexible
systems where rails slide through
post-mounted brackets. Rail sizes
can vary, but are designed to flex
upon impact to reduce livestock
injury.
Like high-tensile fences, PVC
requires a substantial up-front
expenditure, specialized tools and
skills to install, but with their
longevity, their long-term cost is
very reasonable. Because of their
cost, they are most often used for
horses and exotic animals, like
llamas, alpacas or emus, in suburban
areas, but are rarely seen in remote
rural areas.
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Electric Fencing
Electric fencing provides
great flexibility and exists with
fairly low maintenance if
constructed properly. It is also a
fairly inexpensive option,
regardless of what you need to fence
in (or out).
Modern electric fencing relies on
an “energizer” (sometimes called the
fence charger, or fence controller).
The energizer sends short pulses of
energy out through the wires. Like a
reservoir, an internal capacitor
stores electrons until it is full;
then, when an animal challenges the
fence, the capacitor spills out what
it has stored up as a pulse of
energy. A short, intense pulse is
more effective at getting an
animal’s attention without injuring
it, than a long, less intense pulse.
The energizer is one of the most
important components of an
electrical fencing system, so plan
on spending as much as you can
afford to purchase a good
“low-impedance” unit. Avoid low-end
energizers, as they run a continuous
charge, or a long charge, either of
which can harm animals or start
fires. Always mark your fences with
warning signs.
Electric fencing is available for
both temporary and permanent use.
Temporary is effective for
subdividing paddocks so you can
improve grazing management, and uses
electro-plastic twine, rope or tape,
and step-in fence posts made from
vinyl, fiberglass or polymers.
There’s also a woven-mesh version of
electro-plastic fencing that works
well for poultry, sheep, goats, pigs
and for protecting gardens.
Temporary electric fencing is also
convenient if your existing fence is
questionable, but you can’t afford
to replace it entirely. Consider
running a temporary electric fence
about two feet inside the existing
fence. This will keep animals from
pushing on a dubious fence, and it
is relatively inexpensive to
construct. However, don’t attach it
to the existing fence, or you’ll
spend a great deal of time
troubleshooting shorts.
Permanent electric fencing uses
metal wire and a combination of
wooden and metal T-posts with
plastic insulators. Some permanent
electric fences, such as
electric-braided fencing, reduce
injury because if an animal runs
into it, the fence acts like a
“boxing ring”—bouncing the animal
back. Permanent electric can provide
an adequate perimeter, though if you
live in an area where your perimeter
needs to be extra secure (adjacent
to a highway) you’ll do better with
a combination of electric with one
of the other types of fencing (wood,
woven wire, synthetic or
high-tensile), because electric
fencing can fail at times.
Combination fencing also works best
in high-stress areas, like runways,
stallion paddocks or holding pens.
Even if the energizer never
fails, electric fences will fail to
give the shock that animals respect
if a wire is shorted against a piece
of metal, or if the fence is
inadequately grounded. Proper
construction minimizes both shorts
and grounding problems.
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Mapping Your Farm Fencing Project
Before you start purchasing
materials, it helps to map out your
fencing project. Draw your farm on
grid paper showing roads, buildings,
paddocks and significant natural
features (like heavy woods, ponds,
rock outcroppings, et cetera).
Think about paddock design (a
pasture subdivision). Having
multiple paddocks to rotate
livestock through improves grass
management, feed quality and herd
health. The more paddocks the
better, but ultimately, aim for at
least eight. Paddocks can be easily
subdivided using temporary electric
to start out, though developing
permanent paddocks reduces the
workload. When designing paddocks,
keep in mind that a square requires
less fencing material per square
foot than an oblong or triangular
layout, though at times these shapes
may be best to meet other needs,
like access to water.
Next think about how many gates
you’ll need, and where to place
them. Gates are best constructed at
the onset, and extra gates provide
greater flexibility, but they also
cost extra money. Plan gate layout
for ease of movement, both for
animals and equipment that might
need to pass through. Man gates
should be four-feet wide; equipment
gates 12- to 16-feet wide. Show
property lines, paddock lines and
gates on your map. Take measurements
for the lines, and mark them
accordingly.
Now with your design mapped out,
begin pricing materials and
comparing products or contractors.
“If it sounds too good to be true,
it probably is,” says Debbie Disbrow.
“Do your homework: Look for
reputable dealers and contractors,
and check out warranties. A
high-quality, well-made fence costs
more to build, but is really the
best buy over the long haul.”
Top
This article first appeared in
the Summer 2002 issue of Hobby
Farms magazine. Pick up a copy
at your local newsstand or tack and
feed store.
Click Here
to subscribe to HF.
